How to Get Rid of Weeds and Grow Grass?
Roll Up Your Sleeves
Trying to grow grass in a weeded area is a frustrating task that provides undesirable results. Weeds are aggressive and invasive plants that can quickly take over an area and it is notoriously hard to get rid of weeds. When you choose to grow grass in an area over run by weeds, you essentially have to start fresh by establishing new turf.
- ChickweedChickweed is a common edible weed that contains plenty of nutrients. It's often found growing along the roadside or winding its way through urban and farm environments alike.
- CrabgrassCrabgrass is a nasty and prevalent kind of weed that loves full sun and high temperatures. Crabgrass is an annual that dies at the end of the year, but acts like a perennial, spreading thousands of seeds that begin growing the next spring.
- DandelionDandelions can strike just about anybody’s lawn, no matter how meticulous you are about maintaining it. In spite of the invasive nature of these resistant blooms, there are several actions you can take to rid your lawn of them. No matter what method you use, though, it is best if you fight back before the yellow flower head matures into a white, puffy harbinger of dandelion doom. Once the puffy white seeds spread, you’ll have more than just a few stray weeds on your hands.
- Violet weedsOne of the most difficult weeds to control in the lawn is wild violet. This native plant may look cute and dainty, especially in the spring when it produces pretty purple flowers. But in reality it is an aggressive weed with an unusual flowering quirk that results in thick mats of leaves that can choke out your lawn.
- Yellow nutsedgeYellow nutsedge and purple nutsedge are grass-like perennial weeds that can cause severe losses in vegetable and row crops. Nutsedges grow during the frost-free season, spreading and propagating through an extensive underground network of rhizomes, bulbs, and small, starchy tubers or “nutlets.” Within a single growing season, one tuber can give rise to hundreds of shoots in a dense patch 3–6 feet across, and form over 1,000 new tubers.
- Remove the weeds from the area by either manually pulling them out of the ground or applying weed killer to the area. Hand-pulling weeds is safer for the soil, but removing all the roots can be difficult. Chemical weed killer kills the weeds and their roots, but may damage grass seed and leave pesticide residue in the soil. If you choose to use weed killer, wait 2 to 3 weeks before planting new grass seed.
- Till the top 6 inches of soil with a soil tiller. You can rent or purchase soil tillers at home improvement centers and rental yards. After the tiller turns under the dead weeds and soil, rake the soil with a garden rake to level the area as much as possible. Remove large rocks and break up clumps of soil.
- Don’t till the soil when it is wet. Doing so could damage the soil structure.
- Cover the soil with the correct grass seed for your location. Use your gloved hands to distribute the seeds evenly over areas smaller than 150 square feet. For larger areas, use a seed spreader.
- Apply a thin layer — about 1/4 inch — of high-quality topsoil over the grass seed. Attach a garden hose sprayer with a mist option to a water hose. Dampen the top 6 inches of the soil with the water hose set on mist. Using a mist of water instead of a stream will prevent the seeds from washing away.
- Continue lightly watering the soil two to three times a day until the seeds have germinated and the grass is about 1/2-inch high. Never let the seeds dry out.
There are several different methods that can be used to get rid of weeds and grow grass, as well as options for dealing with future weeds. Sometimes professional help is needed to tackle large scale weeds or a total lawn do over by reseeding or re-sodding your lawn. TLC Landscapes is here to assist you maintain your landscape. Please call or click here for a custom quote.
Published on April 26th, 2017
Updated on May 15th, 2017